LEGO Classic Space Set 6950 – Mobile Rocket Transport

Here is another Classic Space set – this time from 1982. The LEGO Set 6950 – the Mobile Rocket Transport – comes in the all-so-familiar gray-yellow color scheme, complete with a detachable large Rocket.

This one is a set I never owned before – so it is not in my original collection from the early 80’s but I did get it reasonably priced at eBay (again, I actually got two because the other one came in a set later).

Like before, the set came “partially assembled” and the first step is taking it apart and running it through the dishwasher at a low-temperature program. I really like the method, it is working nice and clean.

Unlike so many other sets that I own, this one comes with a specialty: the original box! Usually, when the box comes into play, prices soar at eBay but for one reason or the other, this did not happen for this particular auction.

One of the advantages having the original box is that they usually held “alternate” model ideas – things you could also build from the set but which are not covered by any instructions officially provided by LEGO.

This kind of proofs my point that I favor the Classic Space Theme over any of the new space themes such as “Star Wars” or “Alien”: being made from really generic bricks and not following any fixed motive (such as a Star Destroyer) they tend to really encourage creativity. You can build whatever you can imagine – as long as you got the bricks to support it.

To comment on the model itself: it is in really good condition – especially the transparent yellow parts are in really good shape, very little scratches and wear of time. And the only thing found missing is a flat black 2×2 disc.

Another thing about the model which I really like is its touch with LEGO Technic. Some other models use the bricks but this one really makes use of them by coming with a flexible all-terrain wheel suspension.

Above is a picture of the suspension section – front is left. As you can see, it will have eight large wheels mounted in pairs to four individually adjustable axles.In addition, the rear section in addition can be rotated to provide full maneuvering flexibility.

Both section are held in place by a large 6×14 plate which serves as the foundation of the platform itself. The front will also host the cockpit and (later) the control section.

The platform itself is composed from four wing elements, access ladders, control thrusters and four steering wheels to control the crane, which will be mounted on the massive support structure seen above.

With the wheels mounted and the lower hinge in place, the Rocket Transport is almost finished. Another hinge and a small platform mounted on top of it will hold the rocket in place.

The rocket itself is pretty complex – maybe the most complex one in the theme and serves the model just right.

Fully assembled and placed on an original LEGO 306 Crater Plate, the dimensions and size of the model become apparent – here are some more close-up photos of the assembled model.

The Cockpit section above – and the aft section below. Note the rocket’s clever setup with the side thrusters – very nice model design.

Finally, we can also see the hinges in action while the rocket is lifted into a launching position. The box stabilizing the rocket can be opened and the launch vehicle would simply drive forward to pull free.

The final images shows the wheel suspension in action – the front right gear easily adapting to the terrain of the crater plate while the front left section remains level on the base plate.

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LEGO Classic Space Set 6929 – Starfleet Voyager

In 1981, LEGO released Set 6929 “Starfleet Voyager” – with its gray-white fuselage and the transparent blue windshields a distinct visual set-away from the otherwise blue-yellowish scheme used (at this time) for the other space ships like the Sets 918, 924 & 928 – of which the first one is described in an earlier post.

Now the model that I got via eBay was pretty much showing its age – dust & dirt all over the place, some parts broken and repaired, you name it. So naturally (and as a test for all the other sets that I now own) I decided to try one of two cleaning methods usually proposed: the dishwasher.

However, you are not putting the tiny bits and pieces into the dishwasher – you will find them tossed around and lost (at best in the filter) by the water. Instead, place them into a washing bag and then place the sealed bag in the upper tray of the dish washer… and use the low temperature mode! Mine washed at 35°C (but I somehow was thinking it must have been warmer in there when I finally removed them…)

So when I got them back out, they really came back nice and clean – of course, a dishwasher cannot work wonders but the dust and most of the dirty was gone, the rest was taken care of while drying them… then came the long process of re-assembling the set, always trying to make sure that damaged or discolored pieces were used on locations where they would not show much when looking at the model.

The result is pretty good – the model now looks relatively clean and – despite the damage done to some of the bricks over time – almost as good as mine in the mid-80s looked.

I remember having always liked the slim and slick design of this particular set – that and the blue-white color scheme made it really look “science fiction” way back when…

My model gave me a pleasant surprise when I received it from the eBay Seller: most (in fact: all but one) of the stones showing the Classic Space Logo had been in good condition with the planet still clearly visible (in many cases, the planet part of the logo has been washed out over time and mostly a dull disk and the better preserved red space ship remains visible.

Likewise, the two Computer bricks in the back have remained in almost mint condition – nothing really to complain about and making well up for the purchase price of about 25€.

Did I say I like the set for its elegant slim and slick design? This is what I meant: looking at the model from the front, you can see that it more resembles and attack craft than an exploratory vehicle but LEGO (at least back then) was a peaceful setting and real “fighter crafts” not in place. Which explains why even this beautiful ship goes along by having a cargo compartment which can be opened and a large box of cargo in the hold.

To me, it remains one of the most beautiful Classic Space Sets ever – and I am happy enough to own not only one but two at the moment (maybe I will re-auction one of them at a later point in time)…

And by the way: this post from earlier this year shows my original set amongst the other sets I used to own – unfortunately, back then, the picture was taken severely out of focus but you can still get the idea…

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LEGO Classic Space Set 918 – Classic Space Transport

It has been a few month since my last efforts on re-building old LEGO Classic Space sets. By now, eBay has done a fantastic job: I have failed to trace down my old collection (still sucks: I borrowed them to someone and cannot remember who it was) but most of the models I was able to re-capture for a reasonable price tag in various online auctions (including some I did not own). One of these is the LEGO Set 918 Space Transport.

The little brother of LEGO 924 & LEGO 928

This set is the smallest of three ships that form a loose series by design and common look & feel: LEGO 918, LEGO 924 and LEGO 928. Instructions – as usual – can be found here.

LEGO 918 Space TransportHaving a “real” LEGO Set in my hands for the first time in I guess more than 25 years, I obviously like to add it to my Luna 13 Compilation of Classic Space Sets.

The Compilation in MLCAD

Like before, I am using MLCAD to construct the model, then POVRay to render the scene. There is nothing really “fancy” in this model so I will not go through details about the construction. Finally, I got my model created and saved in MLCAD.

LEGO 918 in MLCADUsing LDView, we can now create a POVRay Scene file, replace the camera settings and render the image.

LEGO 0918 - Space TransportWhich is pretty darn close to the photo of the original… the last step now is to incorporate the model into the larger composition of LEGO Classic Space sets.

The Luna-13 Moon Base extends…

Adding this model to the already existing compilation Luna-13 Moon Base brings this one just one more step to completion…

As you can see – the base has come a long way since the earlier posts – and there is still plenty of things to be done… another day.

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Creating a Dice using Belder

The Goal

As part of my learning curve with Blender, I have come across several brilliant tutorials on the Internet – one, that I particularly liked was two videos (in German language) on the creation of a dice (Video 1, Video 2). Thanks to Berthold Lausch for the great job!

As much as I enjoyed the two videos – I initially had some trouble getting to follow them because some things had not been “obvious” to a newbie like me. So I decided to pick up where I felt the videos had lost me and put them into my own little scene.

This is a pretty good roll – besides that, it is also a pretty good thing to model in Blender as a beginners work (especially with the help of Berthold’s tutorial!) – so let’s get at it.

Modeling the base Form

When Blender starts up and loads the factory settings (which you can enforce by going to the File menu and select Load Factory Settings) you will see that three objects are already present:

  • a light source,
  • a camera, and
  • a basic cube

Which is a good starting point since we are going to use the existing cube and turn it into the first dice. Those of you that are used to technical drawing using 3-side-views might appreciate the keyboard shortcut Ctrl-Alt-Q which switches the screen layout to a quad-view showing the top, front and right sides of the scene as well as a 3D image from the positioned camera.

The first thing Berthold is doing in his tutorial is to select the cube – just use the Key-A to Select All. Your cube should be highlighted now.

The next step then is to subdivide the existing cube into smaller elements – if your Mesh Tools are visible, just click the Subdivide button, if not, press Key-T to show the Mesh Tools.

Berthold is using Number of Cuts = 4, actually dividing the cube into 5 divisions across. After having run through the tutorial, I figured out that that is the best number to work with because it will later help us to easily place the pips in the dice.

The next step has taken me a while to figure out – because of the way Blender handles the selection of object. What Berthold is showing in the video is the subdivision of the cubes that form the edges of the dice. We need them to become more granular so we can model the curves of these edges. There are a couple of steps to go through:

The first thing to do is to switch from the Vertex Select Mode to the Edge Select Mode.

Next, you clear the selection by simply using the Key-A again – it toggles between Select All and Select Nothing. So make sure the cube is gray (which is “not selected”).

Then, you need to select the edges: first of all, I think the key combination Ctrl-Alt-Shift is already a finger breaker (but it seems like you need it for this step) – and this is because of the different selection modes in Blender:

  • Simple Right-Mouse-Button Click (RMB) selects the object beneath the cursor. If something else was selected, it is no more.
  • Selecting using Shift-RMB adds the object under the cursor to the current selection – this is how you can select multiple objects at a time.
  • In Edge Selection Mode (as we are), Ctrl+Alt+RMB invokes a “Edge Ring Selection” – you can find all the details here.

Bottom line: to select the cubes forming the edges, you need the Ctrl+Alt+RMB combination for the Edge Ring Selection and the Shift key in there to add to the selection. Then you need to click the wire frame lines that form the edges. I have marked the click-spots with red arrows for reference:

With this selection, click the Subdivide button again and use Number of Cuts = 1.

Now, we need to form the rounded area that makes the pip areas up. Berthold is doing this the following way: while still in Edge Select Mode, clear the current selection – Key-A – and then press Key-C to enable the Circle Select tool.

The Circle Select tool provides you with a circle on the screen and everything that is within the circle when you click the Left Mouse Button (LMB) is selected. You can use the mouse wheel to make that circle larger or smaller. So select the outermost ring by clicking the individual line segments. By the way: if you accidentally select the wrong segment, click it with the Middle Mouse Button (MMB) – which sometimes is the wheel itself. When everything is selected, use RMB to exit the Circle Select mode!

Berthold is now transforming the selected rectangle into a sphere – you can use the Mesh -> Transform -> to Sphere menu. Or just click Shift+Alt+S. Either way, you are now having your selection transformed into a sphere. If you move the mouse, you can see the sphere shaping differently – you want a Factor = 1… but where to set it?

There seems to be a small bug (or at least non-intuitive behavior) here: you need to move the mouse over to the Mesh Tools window and actually click into it to get the text input field for the To Sphere Factor.

Now, we have done three sides of our dice – we need to do three more side. The problem is: they are hidden in the Quad View – and we cannot see them. If you have been peeking and poking around blender a bit, you know that the individual windows can be set to different view-ports – at the moment, the view-ports are setup (starting in the upper right corner, going clockwise) as Camera, Right, Front and Top.

You can change the view-port of each individual window using the Num-Pad (on the PC):

  • Numpad-7 is Top View,
  • Numpad-1 is Front View,
  • Numpad-3 is Right View, and
  • Numpad-0 is Camera View

However, in the current setup, only the upper right window allows us to change the view-port. Why? Well: as I had to find out here, Quad View (which I have been working in) locks the other three windows by default. To unlock them, press Key-N to display the Properties and un-tick the Lock item in the Display section.

With the lock removed and the understanding that the Numpad-Keys combined with the Ctrl-Key toggle the view-port to the opposite (so Numpad-7 is Top View, Ctrl-Numpad-7 is Bottom View) you can now move the cursor over the individual windows to toggle the view to the opposite sides.

Once all six sides have been treated and their sphere transformation is through, you are almost halfway there. Next step Berthold is taking us through is the actual shaping of the edges: with the Edge Select Mode still switched on, we are now going to select the dice’s edges. Remember the Ctrl+Alt+Shift+RMB finger-breaker – the click-spots are in the screen-shot below:

This selection is also transformed into a sphere – a logic not immediately understandable but if you imagine just having selected a portion of the entire cube for transformation (the selected edges) and transforming these into a sphere while the plain areas remain plain, you can see where this is coming from. Play a little bit with the mouse to see the effect of the different factors but finally use a To Sphere Factor = 0.8 to stick to Berthold’s tutorial video (after all, these are his steps!).

As you can see, the inner areas of the dice are now slightly “indented” – a victim of transformation. Berthold is showing us a quick way of correcting this problem – by using the Snap Tool:

First, enable snapping by clicking the little magnet icon. From the selection to its right, select Vertex because this is what we will be snapping to. Finally, select Closest as the target.

Now, select the Face Select Mode – the icon to the right of the Edge Select Mode. Then toggle away from the Quad View and rotate the dice so you can see three of its sides. Finally, press Key-C to enable the Circle Select Tool.

Now, select the nine faces on one side of the dice and exit the select mode by clicking RMB. Your screen should now look like this:

The next step is tricky: notice the axis indicator in the lower left corner? The faces selected in the above image need to be shifted along the Y-Axis. So press LMB (and keep it pressed!) and press KEY-Y. This locks the movement to the Y-Axis. Now move the mouse to the position indicated in the image below and you will see a small white circle – the Snap Indicator. This is where your faces will snap to if you release LMB.

Note: Instead of locking the axis as described above, you can drag the appropriate axis by clicking & dragging it on its indicator (the green arrow in my case).

Repeat this for the remaining five sides of the dice by rotating the dice in the view as required. Eventually, you will end up with all six sides being aligned.

Which leaves us with the next task – creating the pips. First of all, disable the Snap Mode in the toolbar. Then take a look at the dice. In my screenshot, we are currently seeing the Top, the Front and the Right side.

Now, switch to Circle Select mode by pressing Key-C and let’s say the Top side becomes our value 6. From the nice center faces, now select those that are going to form the 6.

Now continue with the other faces – the Front (which will be our 4) and the Right (which will become the 5). Use the 3D View to verify things work out the way you want. While in Circle Select Mode, you do not need to press the Shift Key to add to your selection…

The three sides we have defined also define the remaining sides of the dice as the sum of pip on opposite sides always equals 7. To see the three other sides of the dice, use the Numpad Key to rotate

  • Num-7 and Ctrl-Num-3 rotate the top-left window (as Numpad-7 is the top-left button on the Numpad),
  • Numpad-1 and Ctrl-Numpad-1 rotate the lower left window, and
  • Numpad 3 and Ctrl-Numpad-3 rotate the lower right window.

So go ahead and do the work. Use the 3D View to make sure all sides are properly selected.

I now switch my display from a Solid View to a Wireframe View using the window menu.

This makes an interesting view as we can now clearly see the selected faces and how they are absolutely aligned on the opposite sides.

Note: I had to cheat a bit while writing this down because the moment I switched to Wireframe View, it became obvious that something along the line had gone wrong: my pips had not been properly aligned… I had to redo the circle quickly but it emphasizes the need for frequent saving of your work: had I saved after each step and had I saved to different files (which Blender supports quite easily) I could have gone back, figured out where the error occurred and could have picked up from there…

Next, we are going to extrude the selected faces. Press Alt+E to get the Extrusion Menu, select Individual Faces and immediately cancel the operation without moving the mouse.

Matter of fact, you will barely see anything – certainly not in the 3D View because you did not really extrude anything. But you can see the change in the three other views – the faces are now presented as lines.

Now hit Key-S to initiate Scaling. Scale the faces just ever so slightly in.You can control this best in the wireframe view because you can tell the distance of the face from the edge.

Now repeat those two steps on the selected faces – Alt+E to get the Extrude Menu, extrude Individual Faces – this time, move them really slightly towards the center. Then repeat the scaling once more.

Next, use Ctrl+Numpad+Plus exactly one time(!) to extend the selection. Doing this once select the next level of the dips.

We are now holding the pips in our selection – not only the base level of the pip but also the “sides”. Time to apply some material. Switch back from Wireframe View to Solid View.

And now click the Material button as indicated in the screenshot above. Make the following changes:

With the first Material selected (there is only one) in the list on the top, you can change the name of the material (the text box beneath the Assign button).

Name the Material “Dice”. Click the white field in the Diffuse section to select a color – something white or pearly, as you like. This will be the color of the dice.

Then back to the top with the list of Materials. Click the Add new Material button – the Plus sign on the right.

Below the Assign button, there will be a New button which you need to click as we are creating a new material. Name it “Pip”.

Click the color area in the Diffuse section. Move the black & white slider on the right all the way to black – this will be the color of our pips. Next, in the Specular section, set the Intensity from 0.500 to 0.800. The whole material area should now be looking like this:

Now, with the pips still in our selection, make sure the Pip Material is active and click the Assign button. If you are displaying the Solid View, you can now see the pips being dark. From the Select Menu, use Select Inverse to select exactly the remaining – currently unselected – faces of the dice (and release the selection on the currently selected ones). This will select anything but the pips…

Now select the Dice Material and click the Assign button again… And there we go.

Still a little “edgy” – but that can be helped quickly. To sort out the edges, we are going to add an Object Modifier which is – in detail – explained here. The one we want is called Subdivision Surface.

So click the appropriate Object Modifiers Button as indicated in the screenshot above. Then click the Add Modifier Button which appears. Select Subdivision Surface from the List. This already smooths the dice.

But we can do better – set the values for View and Render both to 3 – and we can be happy bunnies with out nice dice…

Now don’t forget to save all that hard work (better actually if you keep or develop a habit of frequently saving…) and we will look at the positioning of some lights, a base plate and the rendering one of these days…

Many thanks and my sincere respect to Berthold Lausch – once again – for without his video I would not have come along to write down my proceedings as a written tutorial…

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Sea Bream wrapped in Bacon

Living in the Frankfurt area of Germany means having a challenge in getting truly fresh fish. Not that the fish at the local supermarket is old or bad – you just don’t know where that fish came from, how it got here and for how long it had been sitting around somewhere.

So when I came across this small local dealer, I could not resist to have a closer look at his display. And what I saw convinced me to get some of his fish: all the fish had clear eyes, red gills and generally a visibly good condition. The price matches the quality but hey, quality has its price. So I got us two Sea Breams. The dish: Sea Bream wrapped in Bacon on seared onions. Side-dish of fresh salad and some marinated scallops.

What you need

  • One Fish (Sea Bream) per person,
  • about 5-6 Onions,
  • some Garlic,
  • some fresh herbs – only fall back on dried herbs as very last resort!
  • a little bit of Olive Oil,
  • about 40ml Vermouth,
  • Salt, Pepper, Sugar
  • two slices of Bacon per fish

For the scallops, I added

  • 4 scallops per person,
  • some more Garlic,
  • some Rosemary (preferably) or other fresh herbs
  • a bit of Butter
  • some lemon

The Scallops come first

I am starting out with the scallops for they have to rest in their marinade for some time. Peel the garlic and chop it to fine pieces. Mix the Olive Oil (about 4 large spoons) with the garlic and the herbs, then marinate the scallops. Let them rest for at least 20 minutes.

Next is the Fish, then the Onions

If you want to tackle it one after the other, the fish is next: remove the gills (!) and all the fins. Wash the fish until it is clear and clean. Ensure that there are not scales. You want a clean and cleaned fish. Put them on the side when done.

When done with the fish, peel the onions and cut them roughly. I halfed mine and then cut each half into four. Likewise, I peeled the garlic and chopped that as well. Finally, I added the fresh herbs, also chopped.

The Cooking

Use a pot large enough for both fish. And use one that you can actually put into the oven… if you don’t have one, forget about the fish for the moment and just use a pot big enough for to sear the onions.

Heat up some olive oil pretty good, then take back the heat and add the onions and the garlic. Let that cook for about 5-8 minutes and wait for the onions to become “glassy”. Now add the Vermouth and some salt, pepper and a hint of sugar. Put the lid on the pot and let it sit on the heat for about 15 minutes. For the last three minutes, add your herbs. Then take the pot off the fire and let it cool down a bit.

Meanwhile, you should have heated the oven to about 200°C. Now take the fish, cut it in parallel cuts (2 – 3 per side) and let it have some salt and pepper (but no lemon!). Then add the seared onions and fill the cavity. Finally, wrap each fish in two slices of bacon.

If your pot is large enough to take on both fish and can be placed inside the oven, add the fish into the pot and shove it into the hellfire 😉 – if not, take some aluminum foil, put it on a backing tray and coat it with some olive oil. Put both fish onto the backing tray and put that into the hellfire… you see: the fish cannot escape, no matter if you have a matching pot…

The fish takes about 20 minutes to cook – if your oven has a built-in BBQ Grill, you can use it to give the bacon the last touch.

Finishing the Scallops

While the fish is in the oven, you can finish the scallops. They only take about five minutes (not more!) and you may want to time them with the fish being ready so they do not have to sit around and wait.

Just heat up a pan and – when hot – add the scallops. They have been marinated in olive oil so no extra oil is needed. 2 minutes per side should be sufficient (but it depends a bit on the size of the scallops!). After you have given both sides of the scallops about 2 minutes to fry, add the butter and the lemon (maybe give it a bit of a squeeze) and continue to fry the scallops until they show a light brown color.

By now, your fish should also be good to go (it is all about timing) and you can add the fish, the salad and the scallops, fine tune that with some salt and pepper and serve it. Enjoy!

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